Week 33: Ice cream sundae!
- Apr 18, 2022
- 8 min read
Updated: Apr 19, 2022
1 night at Camping Aminess Sirena (Croatia near Novigrad)
6 nights at Porto Sole (Croatia near Vrsar)
We spent one more night at our first Croatian campsite, before moving on. We normally spend less time in one location but as well as wanting a rest after our long drive, we were also aware that the Easter holidays were not far away and did not know how busy the campsites would be, whether we would need to book and what would be closed or open? Although, we had enjoyed time in Novigrad and the first campsite, we also wanted to move on, so we headed about an hour’s drive away to Vrsar.
Croatian geckos.
So far, the campsites here have been massive! They mix campsites with hotels, bungalows, and apartments on one site with a range of amenities: supermarket, tennis courts, swimming pools, restaurants, water sports, diving school, crazy golf, ice cream shops... We were told, I think by Bob, that many of the campsites existed when Croatia was under communist rule and were designated holiday locations that a whole town/village would visit together during their designated time each year-hence why often they are so big. We generally prefer quiet, small, and rural but as it is out of season, the sites have been very quiet, and we have been very lucky to be so close to amazing beaches. This is something I am enjoying about Croatia-no sand! The land next to the water tends to be rocky or paths made of ‘crazy paving’ with steps and/or man-made concrete paths that gently slope into the water with handrails. Thus, creating a far more dignified and elegant entrance into the water, in contrast to hopping over horrible hot sand or grimacing and falling over when entering the water, whilst faced with the unknown of every step potentially being a sharp stone or a sudden deep hole!
Different accommodation on the site complex
The 'crazy paving' paths and rocks instead of sand.
As we travel through different countries, I also find it interesting the mix of nationalities that tend to head to certain destinations. I take it costs, travel distance, travel rules, Covid measures and weather all add to this but in Spain the campsites were predominately made up of German, French, Dutch and UK travellers, with a splattering of Swiss, Italians and Belgians. Here in Croatia it is predominately German, Austrian and Slovenian travellers. We have seen two other UK motorhomes and one caravan since being here. In terms of Covid measures, when we entered Croatia it was compulsory to wear a face mask anywhere inside a building, the rules however changed about a week ago and masks are no longer required. Finding out the required Covid measures for the different countries and rules required to enter the country has definitely added an additional layer of research and thought to the trip.
In terms of other positives about Croatia so far…I’m sure you’ll be thrilled to know we have found the trinity of cheeses: halloumi, feta and cheddar! A vegetarian’s dream. Generally, there is a far wider range of foods in the shops, when compared to Spain and far more different brands. I actually found soft brown sugar, I looked for this for 2 months in Spain and I’m also sure you’ll be relieved to know that I have found black beans. The local supermarket that we have tended to use is called Plodin, which for some reason makes me chuckle (We’re just ‘plodin’ along, ‘plodin’ like a donkey, ‘plodin’ around the shop). We are still also frequenting the trusty Lidl to Bear’s delight, as he is now eating their dog food, after we ran out of his usual food that we brought with us. The roads also seem good, which creates less stress when ‘plodin’ around in Gordon. They tend to be one lane and wiggly but fairly wide, no potholes and the drivers seems fairly patient. There are a number of toll roads which we have used, the biggest road we have seen so far is two lanes. Many of the smaller towns look like they would be a nightmare if we headed in with Gordon; narrow roads, cobbled streets, one-way systems, a lot of roads closed for road works. We however tend to get to a campsite and then cycle into town, so this is not a problem.
Costs are another positive. This may make some in the UK very angry…but petrol is about £1.35 a litre! (We do think the volume of people, busy roads and costs are going to shock us when we do return to the UK.) Campsites are more expensive than Spain, about £20 a night on average but as well as petrol being cheaper food is also.
So, I should really get on and write about Vrsar and Porto Sole. The campsite was big and we found a lovely pitch that was huge and in a quiet area. This campsite even had a spa! The coastline was stunning, and it was about a 10-minute walk into Vrsar town. It had a pretty port with some restaurants, bars and ice cream shops. We found loads of different walks for Bear and the older part of the town was up a steep hill with old stone buildings and cobble paths. We haven’t found anywhere in Croatia that isn’t pretty and with a stunning coastline so far! We had a few trips out, heading to Porec on one of these. We also finally got to paddle board. The weather has been getting hotter and we had a day where it was less windy-better conditions for paddling in the sea. From our pitch we only had to carry the boards for about 5 minutes to get onto the water. Since we have been in Croatia we have been amazed how crystal clear the water is and bemused to not see people swimming, kayaking etc. We concluded it just wasn’t quite warm enough yet. As we headed out on the boards, Steve was surprised to see a plastic bag. It is very clean in Croatia with no litter. However, after a few seconds Steve realised it was in fact a jelly fish. We then saw quite a few and were unsure of how dangerous they were, it was an extra incentive to not fall off…maybe this is why people weren’t swimming? We headed further along the coastline hoping there would be less jellyfish and then headed towards one of the islands. This island can be driven, cycled or walked to via a bridge. It is however only accessible from the campsite next to ours, which is a naturist site-Koversada (in case anyone is interested it’s one of the oldest in Europe, established in 1961!). We had walked around their beach the other day, as lots of people were and the site was closed. However, we then realised that it wasn’t closed anymore and there were naturists on the beach. We decided to head back to our campsite and that we would sooner risk the jelly fish!
Pictures from walking around Vrsar
Perfect paddle board conditions...naked island is in the background!
We also took Bear out in his 'float coat' for a deeper water swim.
After swimming comes the brushing and washing!
As Easter weekend was impending, we decided to stay at Porto Sole a few more days as it was so nice. Reception said we could stay but some guests had booked the pitch we were on, so we would need to find another one. We moved two rows over and carried on exploring the area. We guessed Easter weekend would be busier but felt assured after speaking with our Austrian neighbour from our first pitch. He said that he comes to this campsite a lot, that it is always quiet, and that Easter is fine. Famous last words! It was fine until Friday evening when a group of about five vans arrived together. We feel we had it a little easier as they were all on one side of us, however a neighbour behind us was encircled by the group. Instead of describing the next few days with all the glorious details, I think you’ll get the picture if I identify three highlights: some of the men in the group urinating up the fence, loud music that sounded like it should be in Eurovision with couples slow dancing in the road and the constant barking of the plethora of dogs they had between them-which were either not on a lead or on a lead but running around without anyone holding the other end! (Randomly one had its hair tied up with a pink bow). Thank goodness Monday arrived. Even though we had already planned to leave on Monday, we were very pleased that they headed off too. It’s funny how sometimes language is not a barrier. The neighbour behind us, who was German, was obviously thrilled they had departed. Even without speaking German, we could tell through his gestures and where he was looking that he was explaining to another man that the group had encroached his pitch and been very loud!
I looked up from the van and saw Bear and Steve, which made me laugh. This was Bear having a little walk before Steve and I went for a bike ride. Not feeling it today then Bear!!!
Just a few more bits to share. After much thought about how to use the extra mature Cornish cheddar mum had smuggled into Spain, I decided the best way to appreciate its taste and beauty would be by keeping it simple. I bought some crackers and we have been having some afternoon crackers and cheese!
We also had a virtual meeting last week and were asked what didn’t work or we’d change about the van? We explained that we had had the van for three years before spending this year away and also spent two years researching different vans before buying it. We wouldn’t change anything, we’re genuinely really pleased with it. However…since then we have considered this further and still think Gordon is fine but Bear is a problem! In our house, Bear doesn’t have ‘free range’. He is not allowed in the bedrooms or kitchen. In the van Bear is everywhere!!! His latest ‘unique features’ include stealing socks from the laundry bin. If the shower is being used, the laundry bin is put outside the bathroom door. Even with folding the top over and putting something heavy on it, Bear still consistently tries to dive into the dirty washing for the prize of finding a smelly, dirty sock! (Maybe our neighbours want to get away from the noise of us shouting Bear repeatedly!). He has also started to bin ‘surf’. He finds it hilarious to try and pull items out of the bin and if possible rip these to shreds!
No...I'm not trying to pull things out of the bin!
Finally for this week, as we find out more about Croatia, having not been here before (well Steve visited with his Austrian family once), I thought I’d share some of the facts I have found out. Croatia has a population of 4 million. The currency is Croatian Kuna, however they plan to move to the Euro and enter the Schengen zone within the next year, so everything is priced in Euros and Kuna at the moment. The capital is Zagreb. Croatia was part of Yugoslavia for much of the 20th Century. Croatia joined the EU in 2013. Croatia is the home of the Dalmatian dog…I’ve not seen any yet? (Would one fit in the van?) Croatia has 1246 islands, isles and islets. The Croatian town of Dubrovnik was the setting for King’s Landing in ‘Games of Thrones’. Croatia is the 127thlargest country in the world.
Hope you all had a good Easter break!
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